A want to start this post off by apologizing for being away for a few weeks, as the fall event season gets underway my blog update may not be as constant as I would like them to be due to busy nature of my work.
Now for the good stuff, to fully understand how your camera works you have to understand shutter speed. The simple definition of shutter speed is how long the shutter is open but there is so much more to it than that. Shutter speed is measured in seconds or fractions of a second to be more accurate. When annotating shutter speed, it is written as a fraction for example 1/60sec. is one sixtieth of a second. You can have a shutter speed of 1sec. or slower but generally you will be working with faster shutter speeds. The farther away from one second you go the faster the shutter speed for example 1/60sec. is slower than 1/125 sec.
We all have that one lens that we gravitate towards every time we pick up our cameras for me, it’s the 75-300mm f 4-5.6(you can get it here). For a lens of this range, it's smaller, lighter weight, cheaper than other lenses in this class. But don’t be fooled by this the lens is quite powerful and great for someone starting out or on a budget and need something with a large focal length.
I work primarily work outdoors and this lens is great for daytime shooting. When I shoot festivals it’s great for getting crowd shots and people milling around it also allows a very short me to get all the action on the stage, for portrait shoots gives a nice bokeh at longer focal lengths.
The glass quality in it is pretty good I can use a 13-year-old Canon 10D with it and still get great shots. There are a few downsides to this lens though there is no image stability, at longer focal lengths the images are little on the softer side, it needs a lot of light or higher ISO to get great images, and somewhat slow to autofocus. For me personally theses aren't big problems because of my shooting style, where I'm shooting
Depending on what you’re doing you can still make great use of this lens. If it is a little bit of learning curve trying to figure the best settings to maximise the lens used but that’s true of lens you buy.
If you're looking for something more powerful than this the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens (you can get it here) is the way to go but just now the price goes up significantly but it’s sharper, not as slow to focus and doesn’t really have that softening problem. I still gravitate more 75-300 because of the fact that my gear gets too heavy with the other lens and I have to stop frequently due to a shoulder injury. I also don’t see a big enough image quality difference to warrant changing how I do things for now.
Have a favorite lens let me know in the comments below?
Being a photographer is just one part of who I am, I'm also working on a degree in psychology. Mental health and the stigma surrounding it is something that I am very passionate about. Over the past 10 months, I've been working on creating an awareness campaign that combines my love of photography with my training in psychology. I am currently in the final stages of getting it ready for the world to see but I need your help. The project is to show people with mental illness as normal, by telling your stories showing your achievements and that you are more than your illness. I as well be a part of this part this project, together we can show the world that we are normal. If this is something you want to be a part of fill out the contact form below or email me @ email@example.com.
There are three basic principles of photography, one of which we talked about a few weeks ago. ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed are often called the holy trinity of photography because they control almost everything needed for the composure of your image. I already talked about how aperture affects depth of field and the focus area of a photo. Today I will teach you about ISO and later we will go over shutter speed.
ISO is how sensitive to light your camera’s sensor is. It originally meant how sensitive film was to light, when digital cameras came around the principle was applied to the sensors in them. Smaller numbers (ISO) have a lower light sensitivity as where higher numbers have a greater light sensitivity. ISO affects how exposed your picture will be and it works in conjunction with shutter speed and aperture to do this. If you want to use a small aperture and fast shutter speed changing the ISO will allow you to get a proper exposure. A lower ISO level gives you a darker image due to the sensor being less sensitive to light. A higher ISO level gives you a lighter image due to the sensor being more sensitive to light. So say you're shooting at a concert and you're using f1.8 and a shutter speed of 1/200sec then the only way to make sure you get a good exposure is to use higher ISO levels 1600 or higher.
A couple of weeks ago I talked about the essentials needed for festival photography. Today I’m going to tackle what you will need to make any portrait shoot a success. Some of the things listed will be the same as last time because there are some things you should always have your camera bag. This list will be a tad long but everything here has saved a photo-shoot at one point in time. Ready? Here we go:
1. Bring Backup
Always have a backup SD/CF card you never know when you'll fill one or have one become corrupt and not know how to fix it (I have had both of these things happen, don't be like younger me bring a spare). Also, invest in good SD/CF cards and card readers (I learned this the hard way when I first started) the cheap ones break easily or simply give out after a few uses. I highly recommend using SanDisk Ultra cards they can be a little pricey but worth it (you can get SD cards here , you can get CF cards here). For card readers, I use Insignia they run around the same as SanDisk and can read every type of card imaginable (you can get the card reader here).
2. Bring a Spare
Spare batteries are always a great idea, external factors like heat can make your battery drain faster. You don't want to get half way through a shoot and have to stop because your batteries are dead. I've seen for some battery types portable battery charger if they make it for the type you use get it. Do whatever you can to extend your battery life (no battery = no shooting) if that means brings a car charger and charging backups while shooting then do it. Your client would rather you be prepared than have to stop because your cameras dead.
3. Messy Hair Be Gone
As an on-location portrait photographer, I have found the elements to be a challenge. Some days it’s windy, that can mess up a great hairstyle that your client spent hours trying to achieve. Your job is to give them the perfect photo-shoot, messy hair can ruin that. I know what you’re thinking I’ll photoshop it, well that’s hours of extra work you don’t have to do if just pack a comb and some bobby pins. At most you may have to erase to the bobby pin but that’s better than spending hours fixing fly away hairs or having to wait for the wind to stop to get your shot.
The rule of thirds is one the basic photography rules every photographer should know. The rule of thirds is a composition rule that helps to make an image more pleasing to the eye. The idea is that you want your subject in either the right or left thirds of the image.
To illustrate let's divide an image up with 2 vertical lines and 2 horizontal lines. Your subject should be positioned along where the lines meet. Look at the photo below, notice how the person in the photo is lined up with the intersecting lines. He is off center, this is done to make the photo look natural. It looks natural because the 4 points where the lines intersect are the strongest focal points of an image. You want the viewer to focus on the most important part of the photo, using the rule of thirds helps you to do that.
The dream for many rockstar photographers is to photograph festivals but not just any festivals the big ones like Riot Fest, Rockfest, Warped Tour, Welcome To Rockville etc... At least that's what it was for me when I started this 3 year ago. I can now say that I've had the chance to shoot Warped Tour a few times as well as quite a few local festivals that are sometimes more fun to shoot because they are more intimate. In this week's post, I'm going to walk you through the process of getting to shoot a festival.
There's a lot of work that goes into photographing a festival and it starts months before the festival even takes place. The first thing you need to do is get approved for a photo pass, for summer festivals the application process for photo passes normally happens in the early spring. Look on the festival's website and social media for how to apply. Most festivals give a press pass to photographers who work for publications. But what if you don't work a publication? Unless it's a requirement from the festival still apply you might still get one, or you could wait till they post who's playing the show and shoot for one of the bands, or you could shoot for the venue. So there are options for the photographer who don't work for a publication also these options can be your backup if you get turned down by the festival. When asking to shoot the most important information are who? what? when? and where? (unless you're asking the venue for which you leave out the where) keep it short but polite. You might not always get a yes but it never hurts to try and by being polite you may stand out so next time could be yes.
Having the right aperture is very important in capturing that perfect shot. Aperture can make or break a photo depending on what you're trying to achieve. Just in case you have no idea what I'm talking about here's a quick refresher on what aperture is:
Aperture refers to how open the hole in your camera lens is. Think of your lens like an eye, the aperture can be thought of as the pupil. As the aperture wheel (the part of the camera that sets the aperture) is turned the aperture (or pupil) gets bigger or smaller. The smaller apertures allow a lot of light to gets into the lens, the larger apertures allow less light into the lens. The larger the opening the smaller the aperture on the scale and vise versa the smaller the opening the larger the aperture. The diagram bulleted points explain this principle further:
*f-stop or f is is the ratio of how open the lens is, it refers to relative aperture to lens size. An f/1.8 means the aperture is completely open, because it's smallest f-stop on this lens (the one pictured) and the hole is largest here.
*When trying to show a range of f-stops we write them like this f1.8:4 that lets you know the smallest is f/1.8 and largest is f/4
*These are just commonly used f-stops there are more in between for example you could take a photo at a f/2.
Every photographer has a camera bag (if you don't you need one) whether it's a small bag that holds one camera to a full on backpack. Depending on what you're shooting will change what things are in your bag. Today I'm going talk about shooting festivals. I will come back to the topic at a later date and talk about other shooting conditions.
I'm not really going to talk about camera and lenses because there's so much more you need to survive the day than that (trust me there are so many things you need). If you're shooting professional then your DSLR with 70-200mm and 75-300mm (my fav. lenses) or whatever lens you have will work. If you're shooting from the crowd a good point and shoot camera can get you some great shots.
This list is kinda long but it covers everything that has saved my ass at one point in time. Ready? Here we go:
1. Bring Backup
Always have a backup SD/CF card you never know when you'll fill one or have one become corrupt and not know how to fix it (I have had both of these things happen, don't be like younger me bring a spare). Also, invest in good SD/CF cards and card readers (I learned this the hard way when I first started out) the cheap ones break easily or simply give out after a few uses. I highly recommend using SanDisk Ultra cards they can be a little pricey but worth it (you can get SD cards here, you can get CF cards here). For card readers I use Insignia they run around the same as SanDisk and can read every type of card imaginable ( you can get the card reader here).
2. Bring a Spare
Spare batteries are always a great idea, external factors like heat can make your battery drain faster. You don't want to get half way through the day and have to stop because your batteries dead. I've seen for some battery types portable battery charger if they make it for the particular type you use get it. Do whatever you can to extend your battery life (no battery = no shooting) if that means bringing a charger with you and plugin if you have some free time do it.
3. Fuel For the Body
Water and snacks are the unsung heroes of festival photography. Think about it, it's hot, you're outside, on your feet all day, and may or may not have time for a break (usually you have 5 minutes the bathroom might be more important than the concession stand). I normally pack a few granola bars, fruit snack(I know I'm still a kid at heart), pretzels, trail mix, or fresh fruit. Pack things you can eat quickly in between sets that doesn't take up too much space in your bag and can be easily open. As for water, a large reusable water bottle is best because you will be drinking a lot (the last festival I shot it was 102° water was vital) and need a refill. Try to get something you can attach to your to bag (I have a clip-on lens holder that I use to hold water it attaches to my camera bag and can hold a pretty hefty bottle).
One of the questions I get asked a lot is "What should I wear for my photo-shoot?" well, the answer to that varies based on a few factors. Those factors include the time of year, the location of the shoot, and what kind of feel you're going for (you wouldn't want to wear a bright pink sundress in a rustic themed shoot).
After taking those into consideration it is time to chose an outfit. I'm first going to talk about what not to wear. Loud patterns or mismatched patterns can distract from the rest of the photo; if there is more than one person in the photo shoot do not wear clashing colors. Matching clothing maybe a cute idea, but it makes you blend into the background and nobody wants to spend money on photos where you're barely seen.
What's important to keep in mind is texture bring a lot to a photograph. So think layers, hats, pleated skirts, frilly dresses, dark wash jean with a light fading, printed socks and stockings, and even a nice scarf or flower crown can make a photo pop.
Neutral colors like browns, grays, white, and blacks are good for fall and winter along with dark reds, greens, and purple.
Ashley is a Virginia based photographer living her dreams of shooting concerts & interesting people. When she's not shooting or writing for the blog you can find her curled up with a good book and a latte (coffee keeps her going).